A divine Bliss - The Photolog

The winding path to the bhawan.

That's the bhawan, right above!

There goes a chopper. Till that time it was being operated by Pawan Hans, Air Deccan and Kingfisher.

A view of Katra city. Autos as in every city of India, is also a major mode of transportation in Katra.

The mountain ranges surrounding the town.

Above its the bhawan. And down below, its Himkoti.

Just a view.

The Main and the only market of Katra. Btw, in J&K only BSNL and Airtel network works. Also until and unless you have a postpaid connection, your phone is as good as a dead phone. It is so because of security concerns.

And this was the hotel I was staying in!

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Banjara_the nomadic

A Divine Bliss - The Descend

Hello friends! How are you all doing? Here I am back with my next part of the blog. Hope you all will enjoy it. So, continuing with the yatra.

As I was feeling hungry I decided to enter the food court. The time by now was 3.15. Once, I entered in shockingly found nothing, other than Chole bature, which having at 3.15am would be a blunder, and Rajma Chawal, everything else was finished! Hard luck. Of course, there was chai. Gave a thought for a minute or so, and then decided to give it a miss and start descending, as dawn would be breaking shortly. So accordingly I started descending. Now, when you are tired, your tummy is empty, even 1km would look like 100 miles, still “leke prabhu ka nam” started the descend, Initially for the first 2kms I was super charged, and completed it within 30mins. Now as I had mentioned in my previous blog, that it was cold, by now, the temperature has dipped further, which made me shiver, even after being covered with a light jacket. Now, after 45mins into the journey, I decided to take a pit stop for few mins. By now, my legs were aching, and telling dude, take a break! So sat on an empty bench. Till now my legs were aching. Now my body joined the party. By the time I rose from the bench, I was not in a state to walk. Somehow, I pushed myself and kept walking. As time passed by I was getting tired and feeling more drowsy. Soon, I was approaching the half way mark, i.e. Himkoti. Looked up the sky, and could see the steady transformation from night to morning. It was now Dawn. The birds started chirping as they woke up from their slumber and was getting ready to face the challenges of life for one more day. The color of the dawning sky filled with mists, with shivers due to the early morning chill felt mystic. Though tired, but still felt the freshness of the morning. Truly the nature is so beautiful; one just needs a point of view to see it, to feel it.

Now continuing with my journey, by 5.30 I reached Himkoti, the half way mark. This time dint take any rest, as I made up my mind that I would dump myself only after reaching my hotel, or else I would reach back to Katra! Now tried getting down via stairs. However all were not well kept, but the flights of steps were too many in numbers. Still this helped to speed up my journey. By 7.30 I was at the banks of river Ban Ganga, i.e. the “dwar”. And then took the same path to return back to my hotel. By the time I reached my hotel it was around 8.10/8.15, summing up a total journey of 14hrs! OMG! Once in the hotel I was warmly welcomed at the reception, took my keys, and went straight to my room. Just as I was unlocking my room, came across the boy whom I met the previous evening. Told him to send me a cup of chai and some biscuits, as I needed them badly. In the mean time I unpacked my bag and took out my clothes. Once the chai and biscuits were served, I went in and freshened up myself, took a long required bath. Once all done, I had the chai and called the boy to clear the room and also handed him over mataji’s Prasad to distribute among the employees of the hotel, and told him not to disturb me until I look for him. And then I hit the bed, time by my watch was 9! Next thing that I remember was when I woke up it was 6.30pm and I was hungry. However woke up and turned on the TV, though there was nothing much to be watched. This was the longest and the best sleep I had for months. Don’t know it was because of the tiredness, or the mental peace which I got after the darshan. Once I woke up I was feeling stress free, tension free, filled with freshness and lots of energy. Went out and took a stroll around the Katra town. It’s basically a small city, and would not have existed had there been no Vaishno Devi Mandir. It’s just a pilgrimage town consisting of hotels and dharamshalas (dorms). As I was strolling came across the market and found that most of the shops were dealing with memorabilia and dry fruits. So went in a shop, and took dry fruits each type around 500g, of course after tasting them all. The price was pretty reasonable, compared to other parts of India.  Then went into another shop to buy memorabilia for gifting my friends and family. Once all my shopping was over, thought of having an early dinner, and retiring on the bed. Looked around and found a decent food joint. Time by my watch was 8pm. Went in and ordered aloo parantha and paneer. The paranthas at the shop were awesome and finger licking. Had a wholesome meal after more than 30hrs. Once my tummy filled and bills being cleared, I went to my hotel and told them at the reception that I would like to clear my bills, as next day I would be checking out. Once all my bills were cleared went into my room, watched TV for a while, before calling it for a day.

Next morning woke up early and did my daily chores, packed my bag, as it was time for me to say alvida to Katra. But before leaving I still had about 3-4hrs to spare. So what best can you do on the last day of stay? Simple, go to terrace and feel the essence of the place. It would surely mesmerize you. Once on the roof top, looked around took some parting shots of the town, and also the chopper which were making rounds. It really felt nice, and as the time for my check out was nearing, though it was a veg and dry city, I really felt bad to leave the place, as at back of my mind I knew that it’s time to call an end to trip, and get back to the regular life, where you have to run with time, and deal with all the worries of life.

Soon it was 12pm and my time to check out. In the next hour I bid bye to the hotel and the staff, who were undoubtedly very hospitable people. Soon I was back to the bus terminus, where the bus was waiting, and after half an hour so the set off on the winding path taking the gradual descend all the way to Jammu city. With heavy heart bid the final bye to Katra. By the next two and half hours we were back to Jammu city. Took an auto and reached Jammu Tawi Station for my Rajdhani, which was slated to depart around 5pm! The train ride was comfortable and by next morning I was back to NDLS.

And hence my journey came to an end. Though short, was the most adventurous. And as life moves on, so does the next plan for the next trip. But till then asta la vista. Take care!

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Banjara_the nomadic

A Divine Bliss - The Yatra

So continuing with my Vaishno Devi Yatra, as I had mentioned in my previous blog that I had already reached Katra, and by the end of my trip i was feeling a bit tired because of the continuous journey. But deep inside my inner voice kept knocking and inspiring me to that Yes Banjara you can do it. Took a deep breathe and took my luggage and set to check in to the hotel which was hardly 500 meters from the bus stand but in a strange city you are always a stranger. 

Now those days we dint have Android phones or mobile internet where I could have Google it to find directions or used the apps, so i took the only available option, human google. Asked few people about the direction to my hotel and to my utter surprise every one gave their own customized route. Finally gave up the idea of asking and said to myself 

"When you have no path to follow, better make a path of your own."

So i took the route via the main market of Katra, and as soon as I crossed the market voila, here comes my hotel. And man I was super excited, and in this excitement I failed to realize that the path which i had taken was the longest. Huh! I traveled almost a km walking with my strolley bag, which of course was not so heavy.

Finally I checked in my hotel and my room was assigned to me. Now in India you will always be escorted by a boy, to your room, be it any hotel, not as mark of hospitality, but as mark of earning a tip! So the boy who escorted me to my room was nothing different, he dint leave my room until I paid him some tip, however, this paying of tip helped me a lot. He was my one click encyclopedia for next half an hour or so. Will come to this part shortly.

Now the room that was assigned to me was too spacious and huge for a single person. Though it was not required, but still my room had an ac, so thought, when paying, then why not utilize it! Anyways all these while I dint have time to check my watch, and when checked it was 5.30. Wow! There were some tissue papers kept in my room which I carried along me, proved to be useful for me. How? Well u guys will come to know about it in later part of the blog.

Now all my plans of taking a power nap and a long shower got curtailed. Thought of taking a shower before leaving the for the temple. If the room was grand, the bathroom was grander. There was a huge bathtub sans toiletries. Since, i had no time there was no time for luxuries also. Got freshened up and took a quick shower. Changed to the clothing which i had decided earlier to wear for darshan and then called the boy. Time by my watch was now 5.50!

According to this guy, during that season, there is always a rush for darshan, so its better to have a darshan at night or early morning, which was my plan anyways. Now the temple doors gets closed between 3 in the morning to 4.30. There are lockers at the Bhawan (the main darshan area is called bhawan). Now thanks to terrorism, and J&K being prone to Terror attacks, so every person who comes to visit J&K is treated as a suspect. Only post paid numbers work in J&K, so if you use a prepaid sim, its as good as not owning a phone, and mine case was such. Now, at the bus terminus there is a parchi centre, i.e. they issue a paper permit, which is valid for 3hrs from the time of issue. This Parchi has to be issued at the dwar, it is the point zero before the steep climb to the temple. here the 1st screening is done. The following things are not allowed in: Bidi, ciggy, any inflammable item, any leather item and any metalic item. However u can carry a cam (but not a tripod) and cellphone, but at your own risk, because lockers are available at first come first serve basis only.

After listening to all these gyan, I chose better to stay safe than to be sorry, so kept all my samaan at my room, locked the room and informed at the reception that I would be returning late after the darshan is over. The room boy, my present gyan dev, accompanied me to the parchi centre, but this time via the short route. Now, it was the onset of Winter so by the time my parchi was issue, it was dusk and there was a nip in the air. From the parchi centre to the dwar, it was around 2.5kms, whch u can either travel by an auto or walk along. Being super charged for the darshan I chose to walk.

 Leke Mata ka naam main chal pada darshan ke liye

After around 30-35mins of walk I reached the dwar. Enroute there are many shops selling daily requirement items to puja samagri. Now this dwar is situated at banks of River Ban Ganga. Once, my 1st round of checking was done and parchi was checked I set on my journey for peace. There are many ways of traveling to the top for darshan. You can either hire a horse/pony, or a doli (palanquin) being carried by 4 people or if u can burn your pocket deep, you can take a chopper ride. Now all these don't come for free. Though I was carrying some cash for emergency and some petpuja, I chose to take the option which comes for free and toughest - walking all the way to the top! However there are stairs to be climbed, but I couldn't find all the flights.

Taking mata ka nam I started my trek to the top via the cemented meandering steep path to the top. Though I was alone I never felt loneliness grasping me in the entire route. The route was well lit with enough place at regular interval for resting. For the last few weeks I was going thorough a rough phase in my life which kept me grasping every now and then. But somehow since the time I had started the chadhai, all these thoughts which were haunting me seemed to be vanished. Instead what I could feel was the nip in the air which was increasing, a freshness in the air and mild sound from the speakers installed playing songs like "chalo bulawa aaya hai" etc.

As i was going higher and higher, the dusk became evening and gradually night. Ofcourse, there were food courts every now and then but initially i didn't have the urge of having anything. i was really overwhelmed to see people going for the darshan. They were overwhelmed, they were excited. Enroute I came around with many bhakts, some had come for mannats, some after their mannats were fulfilled. Ofcourse there were newly weds also, as in some parts of India, its a tradition to visit a temple for the longevity of the marriage (as if God will save from break-ups).

 Now all of a sudden because of the chill in the air i planned to have a cup of hot coffee (never thought it would turn out be such a big blunder). Anyways, after coffee i again started for my journey, and things were going fine, and i was almost flying till the half way mark at 6kms into the trek, i.e. Himkoti. Now once you are here you can either take a detour, or visit Himkoti and then continue further. I planned to detour it and thought of taking a short rest, as my legs were starting to give up, thanks to the tiredness. Also i couldn't take a watch on the time as i had keep back my watch at my room itself. Luckily, the shops enroute, so just checked the bill from where i had the coffee, and roughly guessed it was around 9.30pm. Now, every pahari region in India has our ancestors (monkeys), and this place is nothing different from it. Met about 10-12 groups in all shapes and sizes, and there was one who gave me company while i was resting along with others pilgrims.

After about 20-25mins I again started off on my onwards journey, but things were not the same. One after the rest my legs were not ready to back me up, they had started aching and two, drowsiness was also engulfing me. The weather now started to change, and the air became cooler. I was wearing a full sleeved tee and a light jacket, which would have been more than enough in this time of the year, but I started to feel cold. Around a km into the journey a new and a major problem grasped me. Thanks to the hot coffee and all this while walking and not taking proper rest before the journey, my stomach started doing gurgur and it was becoming difficult for me to trek. I was desperately pleeding to myself, that please dont poop out, as then it become a very embarrassing thing ! Also, from this point it would be an act of foolishness to return back to the hotel. So my next mission was to either reach the main bhawan area which was around 4kms more or a washroom, which ever comes earlier!

But because of this my speed slowed down drastically and somehow I made up my mind, whatever it may be I will make it to the Bhawan. And i started with my onward journey. I was feeling really uncomfortable and could hardly walk just kept on praying "Bhawan, plz come fast". In this melee I also skipped my dinner. The after effects of skipping my dinner will be covered in the next part of my blog!

Ok now some more info regarding the darshan. As you ascend towards the Bhawan, you would come across several shops selling puja thalis. These shops are run by the vaishno devi shrine trust, who also maintain the entire area. These thalis come come at various rates, starting from Rs 20 to Rs. 500. There is no major difference in the thalis, other than the quantity of the thali/tokri. There's a coconut, which is the main chadhawa at the shrine, other than that, dry fruits, misri and chiwra, this is the main prasadi, and sindoor, few coins (other than the dakshina, which you can offer), and ofcourse, mata ki chunri. Now as I was nearing to the shrine (bhawan), I decided to buy a tokri, as later, after reaching the bhawan I wont be able to buy anymore. So I bought a tokri for 50 bucks.

By this time, I was somehow controlling myself. Sweat-beads were pouring out, even after the outside temperature of the area was around 14 degrees. After purchasing the tokri I somehow made it to the Bhawan area, with countless halts. Even in this melee I made it a point to take a look at the moon, which was never seen large before. It was looking beautiful. I was cursing myself for listening to that hotel boy's advice and not carrying anything with me, as everyone else was carrying a small backpack, which i could have carried. There were some real beauty which i just viewed, and couldn't click! Anyways finally i reached the Bhawan. This is a huge indoor area, where the trust provides dorms for pilgrims to stay, and also lockers for pilgrims like me keep their belongings and there were ample. I quickly took a locker from the small check-in counter, and sped as fast as a lightning to the locker room. Now searching for the assigned locker in the locker room was like searching for a needle in a haystack. When you are in hurry, every second wasted, seems like an hour! Anyways, sooner or later I did find my assigned locker. Opened the locker, and kept the tokri and my jacket in. Also this is the last area where u wear shoe, so I had to take it off also, but I wasn't going barefoot to the washroom, so wore the shoe to the washroom (which was strictly not allowed), but being a stubborn guy, I went in with my shoes on.

Remember earlier in this blog I had mentioned about the tissue papers which i was carrying with me from the hotel room, came useful here, and reminded me of a hindi proverb "Dubte ko tinke ka sahara".

Once, i was through with chore, i washed myself and returned back to the locker room to keep my shoes, and take the tokri. Now i was feeling relieved and exited as before, however, now tiredness was grasping me. As earlier mention, this shrine is being protected from tip to toe by CRPF, so checking is very heavy. Once you reach Bhawan before going for the darshan, the parchi that was issued at Katra, has to checked here for a time-stamp, and only then your are allowed in for the darshan. However, in my case, the security guy did a goof up and allowed me in without even checking whether the parchi was stamped or not! Which wasn't stamped actually. Anyways once allowed in no one will call you back. 

Now the shrine is nothing but a cave with a tunnel. There's no bell in the temple, however you will come across water droplets dripping and forming a thin stream. Its been said that earlier this place had a glacier, couldn't find any though! The tokri was taken here and the panditji offers the puja. A security man standing beside me whispered that I was lucky enough to be there at that time, as it was empty and I was allowed to have the darshan for 5mins. Normally they don't allow anyone more than a minute. As it was almost time for the shrine door to be closed, they allowed me to stay and have the darshan for around 5mins. After coming out of the shrine I was feeling much relaxed. Was feeling much light. All the tensions and thoughts seemed to have taken the back door. However I still was feeling a bit tired and hungry. Now, since the darshan was done, I decided to return back to Katra. After the darshan went to the locker room, took my shoes and returned the locker key at the counter. Checked the time on the clock at the counter, which showed 3am. As I came out of the Bhawan Complex I started feeling hungry and spotted a food court right outside the complex. This is the only food court which remains open 24*7. Hence I decided to enter.

So, finally did I have anything from the food court. Did my return journey had something interesting or things went out fine. How did everything turned out to be? To find out all this stay tuned till my next blog comes up. Till then take care and God Bless You all! 

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Banjara_the nomadic

A Divine Bliss - The Begining

We all visit pilgrimages, don't we? And being in India there is always a craze among people for visiting these pilgrimages. And in India we have many. But only few of them are famous. Of which one is Vaishno Devi.

Situated in the hill state of Jammu And Kashmir, its a a pilgrimage near the city of Katra. To be exact around 12.5kms. Actually i never thought of visiting this place to be honest. But all of a sudden made a plan for visiting this place in 2009. Initially had plans of visiting it during Navratri..but could visit it after Diwali almost end October end.

 Woh kehte hain na "mata ka bulawa jab tak nahi aata, darshan safal nahi ho pati hai".

So all set and done booked my tickets for Jammu Tawi on Radhani from New Delhi for the darshan. The previous night before the journey i reached delhi and put up at my sisters place, as the train was on the next day.

The next day my BIL came to drop me at NDLS and as i boarded the train, my inner voice spoke up.

"Chal pada ek akela musafir, apne mukam ki talash mein"

BIL bade me as the train chugged off for the destination i was heading to. As for me, i was feeling enchanted, excited and thrilled for what was coming up ahead for this banjara.

Next day morning the train reached Jammu Tawi station (that time this was the terminal station in J&K). The station was very ill equipped to say the least. Anyways once out of the station took an auto (the only public transport available) to the city. Now for going to a darshan at Vaishno Devi or further for Srinagar you can either hire a car or take a bus. Though there are buses run by the State transport dept, but i preferred to travel on a pvt bus. It was semi luxury medium sized bus, with push-back seats. I also took a round trip ticket for some add-on  discount.

Once the tickets were booked I had around 3-4hrs to spare, as the bus would only leave at 2pm. So, I planned to have some lunch before leaving. Now looking for food, that too for a single traveler like me is not so difficult task, or is it? Well lets find out.

Now the buses leave from the airport road of Jammu city, and this area though being a CBD of Jammu city, still u would hardly find a decent place to have some food, and me being a foodie and choosy bout food it took me some time to find a decent food joint. Finally had some tandoori roti and chole and then took an auto back to the point from where the buses would leave for Katra. This is the town which is situated at the foothills of Vaishno Devi Temple.

Finally around 1.30 I reached the spot from where one could board these buses. Now being October end the weather was more than pleasant out there and the place was full of activities. So for traveling also I preferred for a non ac bus. The journey was pretty much uneventful till the check post before entering Katra city. It was a 2.30 hrs ride and another 1.15 hrs for the stopovers. In between we made pit stop at a dhaba as there was a convoy of army vehicles to pass. Hence it was also utilized as a water and loo break. Now J&K being a disputed area there is a huge, in fact largest presence of army and so they have their cantts just after leaving Jammu city. Now we could only leave after the convoy would pass, but en route I had already made up mind of visiting for darshan today night only. The plan was such that after checking in the hotel, which was previously booked, I would freshen up, and take a short nap for an hour and then set off for the journey of 7.5kms..of course walking. But given the waiting time, i was in deep thought whether or not i would be able to get my power nap. While i was busy thinking all these, suddenly there was a shrill noise of blaring sirens followed by a convey of 50-60 army trucks passing in a very disciplined manner. As soon as the convoy passed ours bus was the first vehicle to leave. Things were running too good to make me realize that it is either some divine intervention or something weird is gonna happen! Lets see what happens next

And as told earlier we had to stop at the check post. Now these check post are manned by CRPF and State Police jointly. There were few more vehicles already waiting. Now these cops check the bus, its passengers (only male) and their luggage. Checking is very strict and each and every baggage is checked. The cops might charge you if u resist them or if u r found carrying any sharp object. Luckily or not i don't know, i was the only one in the bus whose baggage was not checked at all, had it been checked they would have grilled me, as I was carrying a pocket knife along with me, which i guess falls under sharp objects.

After all these hassles, our bus rolled out of the check post and we finally made it to the Katra Central Bus Stand at around 4.45pm which could have completed by 3.30-3.45pm, had there been no additional delay. Now due this journey and previous night train journey I was already starting to feel tired.

Now comes the main yatra part, which will be covered in my next part of the blog. Will the yatra be a successful one? or will there be obstacles en route? To find out stay tuned for the second part, and i bet you, u guys gonna enjoy it. Till then stay safe and God Bless u guys! Before leaving i am just sharing with u guys a pic of the Central Bus Stand and the bus in which I was travelling.

This is the Central Bus Stand

And this was the Bus in which we traveled from Jammu to Katra

Jai Mata Di

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Banjara_the nomadic

Prelude

Hello friends,

This is my blog. A blog from the nomadic.
I would be sharing with you some of my travel experiences. Some old some new.
Hope u guys would be loving it.

:Life is a journey. Its up to you whether you follow a path already made or make a new path for others to follow.

So come along me and be a part of journey.

God bless u all.

Cheers.

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Banjara_the nomadic